Despite everything

From the Morabeza beach bar, there is only white sand and blue sea. For those who can afford it, this is idyllic.

I spend twenty-five times some people’s daily income (a dollar a day) on beer and sparkling water.

I sit on the beach with the Norwegian gay couple I have met. One of them is – in ways I can’t explain – very Nordic: he sleeps and relaxes with utter calm. I chat to his partner. He tells me how they were discreetly respected and tolerated in a double room in Kenya. Cultural progress, and human fellow-feeling, is faster than Political-Legal activism.

I feel less solitary in the contradiction in which I live my life around this couple who understand both Africa and I.

Sal isn’t that bad after all. In fact, it’s a rather wonderful melting pot of Africa, Europe, tourism, beach, sea, and Cape Verde.

At least for those of us who can afford it.

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