Crossing the border, waking the dead

The Gambian border post at Amdallai looks the same as back in 2006. I do not have my belongings searched and am not told lies about carrying illegal materials (such as a radio) as I was back then. There is much less corruption. I walk past the detention cage to the interview room where the... Continue Reading →

Fake News Saved My Skin

Two weeks ago, I left the gleaming hotels of Serrekunda and the Gambia's smaller and dustier capital behind: After a 1.5 hour wait at Banjul's ferry terminal, I board the car and passenger ferry that takes me North to Barra and West-Central Senegal. The ticket costs 25 dalasi, or 38 UK pence. At Barra, I... Continue Reading →

Horse and Cart

We meander between the huts rooved with dried palm leaves and out towards the baobab and palm forest. The only sound is the gentle click-clack of the horse's hooves on the sand. Yaw, the toddler, is - like me - more relaxed and comfortable in nature. We are companionably silent, transfixed by the landscape. The... Continue Reading →

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