Anthropology – A Disclaimer

Is Anthropology useful? Or does it make me criticise and theorise too much when really I should not overcomplicate and simply enjoy. In the dark my taxi driver uses his phone at the wheel, as I did in Mindelo the other day. In Kossivi's restaurant a newly retired nurse from Stafforshire and her husband taste... Continue Reading →

Despite everything

From the Morabeza beach bar, there is only white sand and blue sea. For those who can afford it, this is idyllic. I spend twenty-five times some people's daily income (a dollar a day) on beer and sparkling water. I sit on the beach with the Norwegian gay couple I have met. One of them... Continue Reading →

Cape Verde No Stress

Cape Verde No Stress. Would the local agree, whose tap water - unfit for consumption - is rationed? Cape Verde No Stress. For me. Good LGBT rights, an African beach, where I can chat to people like me, without fear. But Cape Verde No Stress, while the taps are switched off, and the swimming pools... Continue Reading →

Kindness of a stranger

I felt alone among my fellow countrymen and a kind stranger took me under her wing. She tried to find my passport and took me for dinner. We talked about everything and nothing. I asked if I could thank her for her kindness but she said only this: "No need to thank me - I... Continue Reading →


According to a ministry (it hardly matters which), nearly half the beds in this small island nation, are all here on Sal. Nearly half the beds in this small island nation, are occupied by those who have their own beds, waiting empty in their foreign homes. Nearly half the beds in this small island nation,... Continue Reading →

One man and his dog

Homeless man sleeps foetal. In the square, in Mindelo. Under my window. Homeless dog sleeps foetal too. Dog wakes up, walks over, gives homeless man a valedictory lick. But man is deep in sleep. If only under this silhouetted mountain, on this beautiful island, there could be a home. For man and dog to share.... Continue Reading →

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