Bakau: More Breakfast, Less Fear

I last had breakfast in The Gambia thirteen years ago. I don't remember what the breakfast tasted like, but I do remember feeling both amused and nauseous. Yahya Jammeh, then president, was making a televised appearance. He directly addressed 'all homosexuals' in The Gambia, kindly offering them forty-eight hours to leave the country. At the... Continue Reading →

Oran: Architecture in Transformation

It is dark when I wake up. The hillside twinkles between navy sea and sky. Under my window, traffic flows paint the beginnings of day. A single crane on the horizon symbolises the building of this modern Algerian city. I take my breakfast facing the the coastline as the natural pastels of morning develop beyond... Continue Reading →

Cap Skirring

We descend the rang-rang [dust road] surrounded by dense vegetation. Eventually it swings around and Mamadou and I catch our first glimpse of sand. From here to Venezuela there is only sea. We emerge onto a vast beach. Atlantic waves crash powerfully onto the distant shoreline. We walk towards Guinea-Bissau, taking care to avoid rabid... Continue Reading →

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