A perfect day

Today could not have been more wonderful: Swimming in the lake with the four boys from the resort. For an hour, nothing matters, neither space nor time. There was only the sensation of the cool water, and the shimmering droplets washing over the black silhouettes of my new friends, cardboard cut-outs on a sun-drenched sky.... Continue Reading →

Eliye: Ethics of a Traveller

The German girl tells the guy 'I wanted Kenyan tea...Kenya tea is...' I hope I do not do such things. I don't think my Kenyan friends mind as much as I do. But these kinds of things make me wince. 'The eggs are coming', the German man tells my friendly waiter. 'You see on the... Continue Reading →

From Kalokol to Eliye

On the beach at Kalokol, the sky is pregnant with a sense of foreboding. The breeze is becoming cooler. The mountains appear crafted from he dusty horizon. There are only fisherman and birds here. We drive back through the town. The only buildings not made of tin sheeting are the churches and mobile phone masts.... Continue Reading →

Lodwar

I arrive at Nairobi and pass through security three times (everywhere else it has been a mere twice). Nonetheless, I'm at the departure gate within half-an-hour of my arrival at the airport. It's much bigger than I remember, and completely unrecognisable: it burnt down and has since been rebuilt. I don't know a great deal... Continue Reading →

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