Togetherness

I cross the border. Senegalese taximen call out at me. I have 5 dalasi and no CFA Francs. There's no cash machine. An enterprising motorcycle taximan agrees to take me to Kaolack. I spend two hours on the back of his motorbike. Two cash points fail at Kaolack. The third succeeds. My driver continues to... Continue Reading →

Crossing the border, waking the dead

The Gambian border post at Amdallai looks the same as back in 2006. I do not have my belongings searched and am not told lies about carrying illegal materials (such as a radio) as I was back then. There is much less corruption. I walk past the detention cage to the interview room where the... Continue Reading →

Rural life

The car winds around barely visible tracks in the dry sand. We lose sight of the final buildings prior to the lagoon, tracing out a route between palm trees, sand and sea. After some searching, we come to a fence-line and a rusty, ajar gate. My friend has already disappeared beyond it into the trees... Continue Reading →

Kindness of a stranger

I felt alone among my fellow countrymen and a kind stranger took me under her wing. She tried to find my passport and took me for dinner. We talked about everything and nothing. I asked if I could thank her for her kindness but she said only this: "No need to thank me - I... Continue Reading →

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