An awkward cigarette

'Tu fume?’ asks the waiter who served me breakfast. ‘Des fois’, I say. I don’t, really. Well, I do about once a month, as a social thing. Sometimes, especially abroad, smoking is a good way to build social connections. And with social connections comes knowledge. The waiter invites me outside. We stand facing the undulating... Continue Reading →

Oran: Architecture in Transformation

It is dark when I wake up. The hillside twinkles between navy sea and sky. Under my window, traffic flows paint the beginnings of day. A single crane on the horizon symbolises the building of this modern Algerian city. I take my breakfast facing the the coastline as the natural pastels of morning develop beyond... Continue Reading →

Amitié: Ben et Mamadou

Mamadou looks up from the green metal floor of the deck. ‘I was the only one there’, he says. ‘My mother went out for five minutes to buy some charcoal to cook with. She asked me to make nana breakfast. Whilst I was boiling the water, nana died. I found her, still and cold. I... Continue Reading →

Cap Skirring

We descend the rang-rang [dust road] surrounded by dense vegetation. Eventually it swings around and Issa and I catch our first glimpse of sand. From here to Venezuela there is only sea. We emerge onto a vast beach. Atlantic waves crash powerfully onto the distant shoreline. We walk towards Guinea-Bissau, taking care to avoid rabid... Continue Reading →

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