Eliye: Ethics of a Traveller

The German girl tells the guy 'I wanted Kenyan tea...Kenya tea is...' I hope I do not do such things. I don't think my Kenyan friends mind as much as I do. But these kinds of things make me wince. 'The eggs are coming', the German man tells my friendly waiter. 'You see on the... Continue Reading →

From Kalokol to Eliye

On the beach at Kalokol, the sky is pregnant with a sense of foreboding. The breeze is becoming cooler. The mountains appear crafted from he dusty horizon. There are only fisherman and birds here. We drive back through the town. The only buildings not made of tin sheeting are the churches and mobile phone masts.... Continue Reading →

Kibuye Sunrise

After sleeping for around twelve hours, I woke just in time to catch the sunrise. I can't choose between some of these photographs: each one of the boatmen or the birds captures a different aspect of their motion, of their being. To delete them simply because they are similar, in favour of trying to define... Continue Reading →

Congo Nile Trail: Day 1

How to spend annual leave? For many, not a difficult question. Perhaps on a European beach? Or camping somewhere in Britain? I have other ideas. I rather like a cultural experience that's logistically difficult to organise and with a moderate serving of mild suffering (though only by first-world-problem standards, naturally). It's in this spirit that... Continue Reading →

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