Cap Skirring

We descend the rang-rang [dust road] surrounded by dense vegetation. Eventually it swings around and Issa and I catch our first glimpse of sand. From here to Venezuela there is only sea. We emerge onto a vast beach. Atlantic waves crash powerfully onto the distant shoreline. We walk towards Guinea-Bissau, taking care to avoid rabid... Continue Reading →

Eliye: Ethics of a Traveller

The German girl tells the guy 'I wanted Kenyan tea...Kenya tea is...' I hope I do not do such things. I don't think my Kenyan friends mind as much as I do. But these kinds of things make me wince. 'The eggs are coming', the German man tells my friendly waiter. 'You see on the... Continue Reading →

From Kalokol to Eliye

On the beach at Kalokol, the sky is pregnant with a sense of foreboding. The breeze is becoming cooler. The mountains appear crafted from he dusty horizon. There are only fisherman and birds here. We drive back through the town. The only buildings not made of tin sheeting are the churches and mobile phone masts.... Continue Reading →

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