The Gambian border post at Amdallai looks the same as back in 2006. I do not have my belongings searched and am not told lies about carrying illegal materials (such as a radio) as I was back then. There is much less corruption. I walk past the detention cage to the interview room where the... Continue Reading →
Two weeks ago, I left the gleaming hotels of Serrekunda and the Gambia's smaller and dustier capital behind: After a 1.5 hour wait at Banjul's ferry terminal, I board the car and passenger ferry that takes me North to Barra and West-Central Senegal. The ticket costs 25 dalasi, or 38 UK pence. At Barra, I... Continue Reading →
We meander between the huts rooved with dried palm leaves and out towards the baobab and palm forest. The only sound is the gentle click-clack of the horse's hooves on the sand. Yaw, the toddler, is - like me - more relaxed and comfortable in nature. We are companionably silent, transfixed by the landscape. The... Continue Reading →
The car winds around barely visible tracks in the dry sand. We lose sight of the final buildings prior to the lagoon, tracing out a route between palm trees, sand and sea. After some searching, we come to a fence-line and a rusty, ajar gate. My friend has already disappeared beyond it into the trees... Continue Reading →
Oh what would it be like to live, in a place where sounds of birdsong are louder than those of people? What would it be like?